FAQs

No – Aqua Pond Paint is self-priming as long as the surface to be coated is sound (i.e. No loose concrete/cracks etc. If there is please refer to the “Prep your pond” section. For rough or porous concrete add 10% water to the mixed paint for the first coat, as this will fill in any small holes etc. Then apply a second coat of paint as normal.

Yes, no problem at all! Ensure the surface is clean first of any grease/algae/scale and lightly abrade (roughen) to ensure better adhesion of the paint. 1 coat of paint will waterproof porous fibreglass, but 2 coats are preferable.

Please refer to “Method of use”. Marine ply is often used to build tanks and can be sealed with our paint, and the joints can be sealed using our “Gold Label Pond & Aquarium Sealer”.

If using on stainless steel, abrade the surface first using wire wool, and with galvanized steel just degrease as normal using “Gold Label Cleaning Solvent”. This applies whether you are using our paint or sealer products.

If the cracks are hairline/less than 1mm then yes the paint can be used to fill in the cracks. However, if the cracks are any larger in size than 1mm, they will have to be opened up to 5-10mm in a “V” formation and primed with a PVA adhesive which has been watered down as instructed by the manufacturer. Then use our “Gold Label Pond & Aquarium Sealer” to fill the joint and leave to cure for 2 hours before painting.

If you are painting over an old/pre-painted surface, you will only need to prep the area first by cleaning and abrading to ensure good adhesion and curing time. However, if your old painted pond has a rubber coating this will need to be removed before new paint is applied. (Please contact us if you need information on how to remove a rubber coated pond). If you are painting on new render, allow the new render to set properly and then check for any wet spots. A small amount of moisture in/on the surface is fine and will not affect the paint adversely. If the surface is very dry and porous though, it is best to add 10% water to the paint mix to aid penetration of the surface for better waterproofing. All subsequent coats should be applied in the normal way.

No, you can split it into equal amounts and store the rest for later.

Thoroughly stir the paint for at least 2 minutes, especially the coloured paints, making sure that there is no sediment left at the bottom. Once this is done, you can then mix in the hardener and again, stir thoroughly. You will then have 1.5 hours (in ambient temperatures) in which to use the paint before it cures inside the pot.

No, as long as it is not raining and the air temperature is above 10 °c and below 20 °c you can apply onto damp concrete, the normal curing times apply. (NB: If rain is expected after application, protect using the tenting method described below for the initial cure time of 6-8 hours.) Damp is different to wet though. If the whole pond and surrounding air is very moist then it would be best to wait for a dry period of 24 hours is forecast.

The paint is temperature sensitive and should only be applied in temperatures above 10°C for at least 6 hours, to allow the catalyst to affect the initial curing process. For this reason, we would recommend applying the paint in the mornings.  If you need to apply in low temperatures then the pond can be tented over and heated. If you are using a hot air machine then the tent will need to be vented in order to prevent condensation as this can cause water to drip onto the curing paint and wash the catalyst out. Also, the tent/cover should go beyond the perimeter of the pond thus preventing condensation from running down on to the paint.

It is preferable to apply the paint in the correct temperatures (10°C or above). If the paint is applied at this temperature in the daytime but nighttime will drop below 10°C, then it is best to cover the pond but leave some venting in order to discourage condensation occurring, which would damage the paint in its curing state. If you need to tent over the pond and keep it heated (so that the paint can cure), you will need to keep it vented to stop the condensation dripping down the uncured paint. (Please see above)

If some, or all of the paint gets wet before has cured then the surface of the pond will most likely be sticky with a puddle of gel like product at the bottom of the pond. This will be the paint that has been washed out and the sticky catalyst is left on the walls of the pond. Clean off any excess paint you can with a sponge and water. When the pond is completely dry, apply another coat of Gold Label Pond Paint in the normal way and this should cure the underlying coat as well.

No special equipment is needed – only a brush or roller or if speed is required, a spray gun. However, we recommend a roller as this gives a more even coat and will achieve higher m2 coverage.

A second coat can be applied between 6-48 hours – once it is touch dry. If a second coat is to be applied after 48 hours then the first coat will need to be lightly abraded to help with adhesion.

Refill can start between 3 and 7 days, depending on the atmospheric conditions i.e. air temperature and moisture content. (The pond needs to be touch dry all over, it is best to wait longer than refilling too soon.). To begin with, wash down the walls of the pond to remove any residue that may contain contaminates. Once this has been done and all the dirty water has been removed, then proceed to fill the pond with fresh water. Once full, leave the pond for 24 hours before filling with fish/plants etc. so that you can check if any scum rises to the surface. If this happens, just skim this off and leave for another 24 hours to check again. Repeat as necessary until the water and surface is clear, before filling your pond as normal with any livestock/plants/items etc.

Gold Label is able to stick to a surface by displacing moisture from the surface. It works in temperatures between 5°C – 40°C. Please note; it will not stick to wet or dry concrete without using primer ie:-PVA or concrete primer.

Yes, as it uses the oxygen in the water to cure.

Concrete has a loose surface, and if the sealer bonds to a loose surface it will come off. A primer is used to bind the surface, allowing the sealer to get a solid bond.

Yes, Gold Label will stick to most surfaces. If using on plastic, fibreglass or steel (smooth surfaces) etc., abrade first to ensure good adhesion.

If using on stainless steel, abrade the surface first using wire wool, and with galvanized steel just degrease as normal using “Gold Label Cleaning Solvent”. This applies to both our paint and sealer products.

Yes, make sure surface is clean and sound, and abrade lightly.

If the patch that has been sealed is on the side of the pond, it can be refilled immediately. If however, the seal was at the bottom of the pond, wait for 24 hours to refill, due to the weight of the water will compress the sealed patch compromising its ability to seal affectively.

In its uncured state, it does. It will not cure below freezing and it will be very slow to cure in temperatures below 5°C. The optimum temperature is 16°C.

The most common reason is trying to use it as a glue! It is a sealant which needs a body of product to work. If you squash the surfaces to be stuck then the area cannot affect a cure. Always apply a bead of approx. 5mm and gently attach the object or liner patch to leave a bead of approx. 2-5mm. (Do not be tempted to pull it off to see if it is stuck before 3 days as temperature and thickness of sealer will affect the cure rate). It will also, not stick to algae, so make sure that your pond liner is cleaned deeply using a stiff brush! Another reason could be that the water or surface is too cold, so ensure your repair is done in temperatures referred to above.

A small split or hole (no larger than 10mm) can be filled in with the Gold Label Sealer, without the need to use Pond Liner Patches. To do this, fill the hole or split with the sealer, ensuring the sealer has spread to both/all sides of the liner that is split. This will create a plug in the liner, sealing up the hole.

If you can reach the bottom drain with water still in the pond, then the drain can be sealed with water in the pond still. The surface will still need to be clean and free of algae etc. Preferably release the clamping ring pump sealer into the seal area and re-clamp rings. For dry sealing apply a bead around sump to liner and leave for 1-2 hours before clamping down tightly for best results.

No, you can use this underwater to bond practically anything.

Yes, there is no difference in performance between fresh water and salt water.

Yes, this will adhere even in chlorinated water.

Yes, because Gold Label is an inert non-toxic product it can be used safely on coral or living rock.

Gold Label has 4 times the bond strength of silicone on acrylic and has been used in major installations using acrylic sheet.

Yes, make sure you bed the equipment on a bead of sealer at least 5mm. This is to allow slight movement between the two surfaces and support for 24 hours to allow the sealer to cure before any weight is put on it.

Yes, by putting two beads of 5mm diameter, 100mm apart on the overlap. Then gently run your fingers over the liner to make sure the sealer has connected both pieces of liner. DO NOT PRESS FLAT. By having two beads of 5mm, the liner can expand and contract without tearing and it will allow for any imperfections in joining of the two liners. Please refer to the “Gold Label Pond Liner Patch” Method of use.

Yes, Gold Label has a very strong bond to most surfaces. If the product you wish to stick is powdery, it is advisable to seal it with a primer first – contact us for advice.

Yes apply as per method of use.

First V-out the crack to approx. 10-20 mm and fill with Gold Label. If concrete is powdery, use primer first PVA or concrete primer.

To operate, flip security tab, then twist top clockwise, until the handle moves away from the cartridge. Squeeze the trigger until sealer appears. To stop the flow of sealer simply release the trigger.

The product is the same, but it comes in a hand-sized self-propelled container. This allows you to work in tight or difficult to reach areas, where a standard cartridge will not fit.

If you get the product in your eye, wash out thoroughly with water and seek medical advice. If the product is ingested, drink plenty of water to dilute and seek medical advice.

It is always preferable to use gloves when using the product. Do not use in confined spaces.

Wash at 40°C/lower without fabric softeners and allow to air dry.

It can be used dry purely to buff the surface or remove light dust, however, to clean the glass properly, add a light mist of water first.

The cloth does not need to be saturated; only a light mist of water sprayed onto the glass is required. Add more water if the dirt is not coming off easily.

Yes, but on a low heat.

Yes, by putting two beads of 5mm diameter, 100mm apart on the overlap. Then gently run your fingers over the line to make sure the sealer has connected both pieces of liner. DO NOT PRESS FLAT. By having two beads of 5mm, the liner can expand and contract without tearing and it will allow for any imperfections in joining of the two liners. Please refer to the “Gold Label Pond Liner Patch” Method of use.

No, the tape is self-sealing. All you need to do is make sure that you stretch the tape tightly around the pipe or area you are taping.

It may be you are trying to apply it to a wet surface in which case dry the surface thoroughly first. Or, it could be you are not stretching the tape enough. Also, make sure that there is no water pressure coming from the pipe first, ensure the pump is turned off first.

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Yes

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It should fall off on its own, but if the scraper gets very grubby, just clean off with soap and water.

If your question has not been answered please contact us.